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Microcement walls give you one continuous surface with the soft, cloudy look of concrete, but without the weight or thickness. Because it goes on in thin coats, it can cover plasterboard, plaster and sound tiles. This guide covers which walls suit it, how it is prepared and finished, and when a lime plaster might be the better choice.
Microcement shows what is under it, so the wall must be sound, dry and flat.
A wall system usually runs primer, one or two base coats, then finishing coats, then sealer. The trowel marks in the final coats create the movement that makes microcement look like stone or concrete. Smooth, almost flat finishes and more clouded, textured ones both come from how those last coats are laid.
Sealer protects the surface from water, stains and fingerprints. Walls that get touched or splashed need more coats than a decorative wall that is rarely touched. Matt, satin and gloss sealers change the final look, so test on a sample first.
| Microcement | Lime plaster | |
|---|---|---|
| Look | Concrete, industrial | Stone, marble, soft mineral |
| Breathability | Low once sealed | High, suits old solid walls |
| Wet areas | Yes, over waterproofing | Depends on product and sealing |
| Feel | Hard, even | Cool, with depth from layers |
For a concrete look in lime, see Beton Stucco. For solid walls in older houses that need to breathe, a lime finish such as Marmorino is often the safer choice.
Yes, once joints are taped and filled and the board is primed with a primer the system approves.
Not if the wall underneath is stable and joints between materials are reinforced. Most cracks come from movement in the wall behind it. See microcement problems.
You can lay new coats over the old once it is cleaned and primed, but it is a full refinish, not a quick repaint.
Yes. See microcement installation for how we work and the areas we cover.
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